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How well do you know your Chardonnay?

When we last spoke, I was sharing that I have embarked on my WSET (Wine & Spirits Education Trust) Level 2 qualification. And that I am sharing my journey here, with you. Since civilisation began, wine has played an important role. Wine is history. Wine is story. Here is a little bit of my story.

The chapter we are writing today concerns the grape, Chardonnay. Yes, whilst it is named after a small village in France, Chardonnay is also the name of the grape. And, for those of you paying attention in the previous blog, you will remember that when produced in an “Old World” wine region, such as France, the name of the grape doesn’t go on the label.  Yes, I know, it can get very confusing.

Chardonnay in the 1990s

Which brings me to my introduction to Chardonnay. Kind of. Unlike here in Australia, the supermarkets in the UK sell wine as well as groceries. Here in Australia you have to find a bottle shop. The equivalent of an off licence in the UK. The convenience of being able to pick up a bottle of plonk with my peanuts was a wonder to behold when I started shopping and roaming the shelves of my local Tesco.

Being the late 80s and early 90s, supermarkets in the UK were flooded with wine from the land down under. And, to a little travelled (at the time I had seldom left the UK) Yorkshireman, the wines of Australia were very exotic. Labels with drawings of koalas, kangaroos, and boomerangs. Thankfully, over the years, wine producers have become a lot more inventive and a lot more discerning. These labels promised sunshine in a bottle. A slice of Bondi Beach right at home in Brighouse.

This was where my palate was introduced to Chardonnay. Wine that was almost yellow in the bottle. Overpowering flavours of oak. High acidity, not very well balanced by the fruit. Wine that even now, at a distance of over 30 years still makes me shiver. Maybe I had been put off from Chardonnay for life.

The Chardonnay Renaissance

Or maybe not. In the intervening years wine producers have realised that wine punters can have quite discerning palates. And after decades of wine drinkers declaring themselves as ABC, anything but chardonnay, they are being lured back to expressions of the grape that are sublime. Exquisite. Heavenly.

I am one such person. Being lucky enough to have one of the world’s best wine regions on our doorstep certainly helps. Margaret River produces only a small amount of Australia’s wine, and yet the quality is amongst the highest. If not the very best. And it was Margaret River that reignited my love for Chardonnay.

Margaret River Chardonnay

Gone are the yellow colours. Child like drawings of Australian cliches have left the labels. Long forgotten are the overpowering oak aromas, most probably obtained through the cheaper method of using oak chips, rather than the very expensive French oak barrels that are used today. Now, the wines are smooth. Elegant. Sophisticated. Think you don’t like Chardonnay? Then try one from wineries such as Vasse Felix, Cullen, and Xanadu. You may be converted.

You are not convinced? The oak flavours have ruined Chardonnay for life, for you? OK, I hear you. Bear with me. When you say you don’t like Chardonnay, I suspect it is the buttery flavours, caused by malolactic fermentation, and the oak, as talked about earlier. The secondary and tertiary flavours that are a result of a wine making choice by the wine maker. For a specific style of wine she is wanting to produce.

Chardonnay from France

Which means that the wine maker can equally make a choice to produce a Chardonnay wine without these additional processes. For example, Chablis, from the French village of the same name, produces mostly unoaked Chardonnay. The expression in a Chablis is a lot fresher. Dry and mineral on the palate. Refreshing. Not as one dimensional as an Italian Pinot Grigio, and not as complex as Chardonnay from Mersault in Burgundy, which uses oak barrels and lees contact for that secondary aroma of bread.

What I hope is becoming clear is that Chardonnay is a very versatile grape. Wine regions across the world fall between the 30 and 50 degree latitude, both north and south of the equator. Within that we have cool, moderate, and warm climates. Chardonnay grows well in all of them. With wine that bridges the scale from light bodied all the way to full bodied, with varying levels of acidity, I am convinced that there is a Chardonnay to suit you. 

It is not a time to be monogamous

Whether you like your wines aged, producing notes of hazelnut and mushroom. Or whether you like your Chardonnay young and fresh, displaying hints of apples and pears, this is a wine I encourage you to try. And don’t be monogamous. Shop around. Whether you are in your local Tesco, or in your neighbourhood Dan Murphy’s, see what is on offer.

Good examples can be found from Napa Valley in California. France has Chablis and Mersault, some of the world’s best Chardonnay. And there is Margaret River. Which I would suggest you try first. Just don’t tell the French. And if all else fails, stick to something that the Chardonnay grape does very well. Drink Champagne.

Salut, and until the next time. Live well, drink well.

The Margaret River region, whilst famous for its wine, and rightly so, has something for everyone. Whether you are coming to escape the hustle and bustle of the city and want a quiet retreat. If you have come to celebrate a big occasion and want to taste some of the highest quality wines in the world. If spending time in the ocean is your thing. Or just hiking in the bush. One thing is for sure, Margaret River, and the surrounds, have you covered.

Start the day well

And what better way to set yourself up for your day, than an invigorating early morning walk along the oceanfront. Take off your shoes and feel the sand beneath your feet. Pause, listen to the seagulls squawking, circling above, and marvel at the ease with which the early surfers navigate the huge swell.

Whilst surfers have the sea to themselves, my priorities are a little different. No day starts without coffee, right? The best coffee in Margaret River right now is being pumped out by the Commonage Coffee Company (http://www.commonagecoffeeco.com.au/). On your way to the beach, take your reusable coffee cup and pick up one of the best brews you are sure to have on the west coast.

Suitably caffeinated, drive the short distance to the quaint bakery, Yallingup Gugelhupf, and pick up a small treat, still warm from the oven. I personally recommend the pain au chocolat. You won’t be disappointed.

Breakfast

The early start, the long walk along the beach, your mind will now be turning to thoughts of breakfast, and definitely more coffee.

Fast becoming a firm favourite, and not just for their excellent bacon benedict. Or the chilled vibe. Although both are a factor in always drawing us back. The great service, together with the strong, quality coffee ensure that a visit to the Sea Garden Café is always top of any itinerary in Margaret River. 

All the breakfast classics are here, together with a few asian influenced dishes. Judging by the number I saw leaving the kitchen, the Nasi Goreng is a hit with the locals.

In town for more than one day? Of course you are. On your second morning, head along the coast to Gnarabup and have an equally impressive breakfast, with an even better view, at the unmissable White Elephant café. With possibly the best beachside location in the world, the “Ele” is always packed to the rafters with locals filling up after their early morning swim in the ocean, whatever time of year. 

Wines and Vines

Breakfast done, and enough coffee to start your engine for the day, it is time to explore what Margaret River is most famous for. The premium wine that is produced from the 5,000 plus hectares under vine. Predominantly boutique, that are in excess of 200 wineries, enough to keep even the most enthusiastic oenophile busy for a long time.

Jarvis Estate

Greeted on arrival by AJ, the friendly family dog, Jarvis Estate (https://jarvisestate.com.au/)  is a great example of one of Margaret River’s boutique vineyards. Thankfully, we arrived just as a large tour bus from the popular “Wine for Dudes” company was leaving. This meant we had the cellar door to ourselves, and AJ.

We were guided through a full tasting, of some rather excellent wines, and I even got to try a tawny, straight from the barrel. These are the kind of experiences that you don’t get from some of the larger, more commercial wineries.

Whether you prefer the classic Cabernet, famous in the region, or if white is your go to drink, there is sure to be something in the range that you will want to take home with you. If you would rather not go home, there are even a few unpowered camp sites available.

Rosily wines

Moving on to Wilyabrup, next on the list is Rosily vineyard (https://www.rosily.com.au/Rosily-Wines). Named after a French count, who was exploring the area of Western Australia in the late 18th and early 19th centuries, Rosily maintains its French influence through the use of the fleur-de-lys on the label, and the French style in the wine making. 

Enjoy an outstanding Sauvignon Blanc, but just don’t compare it to those produced over the Tasman in New Zealand. There was a friendly feeling of “them and us” when the subject was raised.

At Rosily, all the fruit is produced onsite and hand harvested, with the vineyard certified organic. The result is a full range of excellent wines that will make a welcome addition to your wine cellar.

Time for lunch

All this wine tasting has left you feeling as though you need some sustenance. And Margaret River has you covered. The options are almost endless. As I sat down to sip my Filius Chardonnay, from Vasse Felix, I decided that Meelup Farmhouse (https://www.meelupfarmhouse.com.au/) was certainly the right choice.

Located at the top of the Margaret River region, a stone’s throw from Meelup Beach, the Farmhouse feels like an oasis. Large picnic areas to while away a long afternoon, and a restaurant that feels relaxed, and refined at the same time. I can highly recommend the chargrilled Fremantle octopus and the Goldband snapper fillet. And I am told the chilli prawn spaghetti was delicious.

Breweries

Wine is what Margaret River became famous for, but hot on the shoulders is craft beer. With new breweries seemingly popping up all the time, you are spoilt for choice. Located at the top of the region, in Naturaliste, is Eagle Bay Brewing Company. A micro brewery situated on a working family farm that has been going for over 60 years.

The best way to sample the beers is to get yourself a tasting flight. Six of the tap beers, lined up in order of heaviness, saving the nut brown ale to finish on.

Situated down in Cowaramup, in a rural location on North Treeton Road, Cowaramup Brewing Company is a delight. Open every day, from 11am to 6pm, serving a range of quality handcrafted ales and lagers.

Again, the flight is the way to go. Getting to taste each of the Cowaramup Pilsener, Hefeweizen, Lightsign Summer Ale, Special Pale Ale, India Pale Ale and Cowaramup Chocolate Porter, leaves you wondering which one you will try a pint of. Just as long as you are not the “skipper”, and that someone else is in charge of the car keys.

Something for Everyone

The Margaret River region really has something for everyone. Now that the borders to West Australia have been relaxed this beautiful area, of natural beauty, and world class food and wine, should be top of your 2021 bucket list.

With so much still to explore, we have already booked a return visit for January. See you there?

Do you know your Chablis from your Chardonnay?

Do you know your Chardonnay from your Chablis? Your Sauvignon Blanc from your Sancerre? (these are trick questions, which we will get to later.”) Well, follow on with me as I go on a journey of discovery, deep into the world of wine.

My aim is to simplify things and make wine a little more accessible for you. It can be daunting, sitting in a restaurant and you are passed a wine list that looks thicker than a Harry Potter book. And the sommelier stands over you like she owns the world. Where do you start?

Start here, exploring wine with Fran.

The home of wine

Whether you agree that Georgia (the country, not the US state) is the spiritual home of wine, and whether you called your Shiraz, Syrah, I am here for you.

Starting out as a passionate lover of wine, my interest has deepened over the years and now I am embarking on Level 2 of the WSET (Wine & Spirit Education Trust). A globally recognised qualification in the wine world.

This journey may have been started with my sister as an early catalyst, presenting me with birthday gifts of a wine decanter and the voluminous “World Atlas of Wine” by Jancis Robinson and Hugh Johnson. This led to a membership with the Sunday Times wine club, my entry point into a selection of wine not available in my local Tesco superstore. At least not then. Things may well have changed in the intervening 20 years.

Wine tasting across the world

In those two decades I have been fortunate enough to visit cellar doors and taste some of the world’s best wine from across the globe. Day tripping in the Casablanca Valley in Chile. Cycling around the Malbec laden vineyards of Mendoza, Argentina. Sipping Pinot Noir in Sonoma, a neighbour to the world famous Napa Valley. In recent years I had the great opportunity to travel across the centre of the wine world. 

Just whisper it so we don’t upset our Italian friends. France. Travelling through regions such as Champagne, Burgundy, and Bordeaux had us tasting some of the wines that sing across your palate. 

Margaret River wine region

Closer to home, Australia has been where I have done most wine tasting. Having the Margaret River wine region on our doorstep is something that wine buffs can only dream of. A relatively recent member of the wine fraternity, the vines in this region only date back to the late 1960s. And in this short space of time Margaret River wine makers are making their mark on the wine world. Until you have tried a Chardonnay from Vasse Felix, have you even ever had Chardonnay? And the Cabernet Sauvignon? Full bodied, balanced tannins, and a long finish. Writing this has me heading to the butchers for a t-bone steak.

Live long, drink wine

However, this blog is about wine, not food. Not that you can ever separate the two. Food and wine have gone together since time immemorial. And, research from the Blue Zones, where people regularly live to over 100 years, suggests that part of that longevity is related to the diet which includes a daily glass of wine.

That is something I can drink to.

Short explainer

* Chablis is Chardonnay. Sancerre is Sauvignon Blanc.

Wine production is often defined as New World and Old World. France is a country that sits in the Old World and the wine labelling is based on location, not the grape variety. Hence their Chardonnay that is grown in the village of Chablis is named as such. Same as the sauvignon blanc wines that are produced in the village of Sancerre.

To avoid a lot of the confusion, and partly a marketing ploy, New World producers, which include Australia, label wines with the name of the grape on front.

End of Year Reflections

Another year around the sun. Another Xmas. Another time to pause and reflect. The year end, and the marking of another birthday being the perfect circuit breaker to reflect on the year gone, and set my intentions for the year ahead. 

It is also a good time to catch up on some reading. And there are some people I read about that continue to live long in the imagination. So long that I can only assume they lived very long lives. And what seems to always surprise me is how short some of these lives were. That their lives were full, rather than long. Given the choice I would opt for a long, and full life. If I had to pick one, it would be the latter. Better to live one day as a lion, than a thousand days as a sheep.

One of the books I am currently reading is about Napoleon Bonaparte. The General, and one time Emperor of France. Having now outlived Napoleon, I find it hard to fathom how he fit so much into his short 51 years. Hailing from the island of Corsica, and not even speaking French, Napoleon rose through the ranks, and created a legacy that lives on, even today.

Heading back to Margaret River

I may not have conquered countries, but I have had the great fortune to visit many. For us, 2023 started in Tokyo, Japan, and for the first four months of the year we explored much of South East Asia. The year ended in Australia, in Byron Bay on the east coast. Before then we had my birthday celebrations and Xmas break in Margaret River. You may have heard me talk of Margaret River previously.

Yes, for three days over Xmas we were back in our happy place. Revisiting Injidup Spa Retreat near Yallingup. Waking on Xmas Day to views of the Pacific Ocean, and wide expanses of empty sandy beaches. Truly blessed. Being rather isolated, we had to bring three days food and drink supply with us. A couple of eskies full, we had enough food and alcohol to last. We hoped.

Birthday breakast overlooking the ocean

As has become a birthday tradition we cooked up a full English breakfast on the BBQ and cracked open the Sparkling Shiraz that we had been saving for this very occasion. Later, as we had a dip in the plunge pool, we reflected on the year that we have had. We completed our big overseas adventure, finally getting to do our almost year long travel sabbatical. Upon our return to Australia we found a rental in Perth, and proceeded to readjust to life in one place. The best we could.

One plus to being located in Perth is being so close to the Margaret River region. Picking up the hire car on Christmas Eve, we were pulling up for a vineyard lunch less than three hours later. Rustico at Hay Shed Hill is a long time favourite, usually opting for this excellent degusation menu. Who can look past that crispy pork belly? However, in keeping with the time of year, this time we had the Xmas Feast. And what a feast it was. Victoria had to roll me out once we had finished our Mango and Raspberry Pavlova.

And I rolled all the way back to the plunge pool at the villa. A glass of champagne in hand, we toasted another great day. We didn’t move much for the rest of the day, bouncing between the pool and the sun loungers. As the sun set my thoughts turned to Xmas morning and how long it would take me to open all the birthday presents under the small Xmas tree we had brought with us.

Life is all about Swings and Roundabouts

Boxing Day saw us having lunch at Swings and Roundabouts, a restaurant and cellar door very close to where we were staying. We had pondered on whether it would be busy. Trying to find a space to park in the over flow car park answered that question for us. Victoria had the foresight to reserve a table for us and for a couple of hours we had a very good lunch, decamping onto the lawn with a glass of wine afterwards to soak up the atmosphere of the live music.

Life can be pretty good at times. And this was definitely one of those times. 

Byron Bay Bound

Another of those times was just two days later as we boarded an early flight to Brisbane. Our summer holiday was about to start in earnest. We had a four and half hour flight to Brisbane where we collected a hire car and Victoria drove us the two hours south, across the border into New South Wales, and into Byron Bay.

The last time we were in Byron was about six years ago. Each time we visit we have a great time, and this time was no exception.

Australia’s Most Easterly Point

Five days went by in a blur of excellent food, margaritas, and long beach walks. We walked up to the lighthouse, the most easterly point in Australia, watching large pods of dolphins frolic in the sea alongside us. Taking advantage of the free bikes from the hotel, we cycled out of town to visit Stone & Wood brewery. This visit was even better than the one six years ago as they are now in a bigger location and have a small range of food options. A paddle of beer and chicken wings made for a good afternoon.

Before cycling back to town we went a little further afield and called in at “The Farm”. A large working farm that houses the Three Blue Ducks restaurant. No food for us this time, just a walk around the farm and amongst the sunflowers.

As a reward for a very high step count we ended most days laid around the hotel pool, ordering margaritas from the (too) convenient QR codes that now appear to be absolutely everywhere. Very easy to use, and very easy to lose track of exactly how much money you are spending. Ah well, as we say, “life is short, live it well.”

Over the border to Queensland

Which we intended to do by relaxing and making the most of the break we had. Wednesday morning saw us checking out of the hotel, jumping in the hire car, and heading back over the border to Queensland. We called in at Surfers Paradise on the Gold Coast to stretch our legs. This area is constantly changing and part of me feels a little sad to be seeing all the original small apartment buildings being demolished for shiny new apartment towers that a lot of people will not be able to afford.

Some people will call it progress. Thankfully in Australia some things never change. One of these is the love of the humble meat pie. My lunch was a very good one with ketchup before driving the final hour into Brisbane, a city we last visited in 2022, our jumping off point for leaving Australia when we commenced our long travel sabbatical. 

Howard Street Wharves

On our last visit we stayed in Fortitude Valley and this time opted for the hotspot of Howard Street Wharves. An area that has been revitalised with new restaurants, bars, and a huge brewery called Felons, serving an excellent hazy pale ale. Our hotel, the CrystalBrook Vincent, was in a prime location, at the end of the Story Bridge. Australia’s second favourite bridge looked quite a pretty sight, festooned in bright green and red lights in the evening.

What is a holiday without a degustation dinner? Ours was at Rogue Bistro, in nearby Newstead, where we enjoyed the 5 course “summer dego” menu. Every morsel was delicious and with the matching wines, we had a gorgeous meal that almost stretched to three hours.

Final Reflections

As we entered the festive period we planned to completely down tools and switch off for a couple of weeks. And this is exactly what we did. I flew through the excellent new biography of Elon Musk. Victoria managed to read the books she had received for her birthday in November. 

I write this as we enjoy the final weekend before most of Australia returns to work after what always feels like a nationwide summer holiday. I’m left wondering what the new year will bring. What new places will we visit? Which new restaurants will we get to experience? What I do know is that the year will be full of both as this is what we will make happen. It will manifest.

What will you make happen this year?